Abstract: he contributions of surface (breaking wave) boundary layer (SBL) and bottom (velocity shear) boundary layer (BBL) processes to surf-zone turbulence is studied here. The turbulent dissipation rate ?, estimated on a 160-m-long ...

Abstract: he surfzone contains energetic two-dimensional horizontal eddies with length scale larger than the water depth. Yet, the dominant eddy generation mechanism is not understood. The wave-resolving model funwaveC is used to ...

Abstract: High-quality measurements of the turbulent dissipation rate ? are required to diagnose field surf-zone turbulence budgets. Quality control (QC) methods are presented for estimating surf zone ? with acoustic Doppler velocimeter ...

Abstract: Lagrangian drifter statistics in a surf zone wave and circulation model are examined and compared to single- and two-particle dispersion statistics observed on an alongshore uniform natural beach with small, normally ...

Abstract: his is Part II of a two-part study focused on Stokes drift and transient rip current (TRC) effects on the unstratified (Part I) and stratified (this paper) inner shelf. Part I focuses on funwaveC?Coupled Ocean?Atmosphere ...

Abstract: his is part one of a two-part study focused on Stokes drift and transient rip current (TRC) effects on the unstratified (this paper) and stratified (see Part II) inner shelf. A TRC-generating, wave-resolving model funwaveC ...

Abstract: Near the shore, cross-shore winds strongly affect the location of the break point and the breaking-wave height. From casual observation from the beach, wind direction (onshore or offshore) and speed also appear to affect ...

Abstract: The effect of breaking-wave-generated turbulence on the mean circulation, turbulence, and bottom stress in the surf zone is poorly understood. A one-dimensional vertical coupled turbulence (k?ε) and mean-flow model is ...

Abstract: Measurements of the vertical Reynolds stress components in the wave-dominated nearshore are required to diagnose momentum and turbulence dynamics. Removing wave bias from Reynolds stress estimates is critical to a successful ...

Abstract: Inverse models are developed that use data and dynamics to estimate optimally the breaking-wave-driven setup and alongshore current, as well as the cross-shore forcing, alongshore forcing, and drag coefficient. The inverse ...