Abstract: Often, nearshore radiation stresses are approximated using the monochromatic wave assumption, although this can have significant errors when the incident waves have finite frequency and/or directional spread. Consequently, ...

Abstract: Observations of wave properties during Hurricane Ike are presented for eight temporary gauges in mean depths of 8.7–15.8 m over a 360-km section of coastline. These gauges cover both the strong (left) and weak (right) sides ...

Abstract: This paper describes nonintrusive optical techniques to measure large-scale

Abstract: The behavior of rip currents with changing bar and gap lengths was tested in a series of laboratory experiments using video-tracked floating drifters. Qualitatively, currents showed strong differences in overall character ...

Abstract: This paper describes an investigation of the interaction of breaking solitary wave runup with a two-dimensional semipermeable (vegetated) obstacle and the resulting wave loading on a downstream cylinder. The OpenFOAM model, ...

Abstract: Overland flow from inundation events (IEs) such as hurricanes or tsunamis produce destructive loading conditions on nearshore structures. The magnitude of this loading and its associated impact can be substantially reduced ...

Abstract: Parts I and II of this paper describe the extension and testing of two sets of Boussinesq-type equations to include surf zone phenomena. Part I is restricted to 1D tests of shoaling, breaking, and runup, while Part II deals ...

Abstract: In this paper, we focus on the implementation and verification of an extended Boussinesq model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions. The time-domain numerical model is based on the fully nonlinear ...

Abstract: Airborne bathymetric lidar surveys taken in Florida before and after the severe 2004 and 2005 hurricane seasons show infilling of seventeen dredged nearshore borrow pits. During these seasons, groups of pits captured volumes ...