Abstract: Field measurements of surface gravity waves along the center line of the straight, 1 km long, 8 m deep, 250 m wide Mission Bay entrance channel (bounded by rubble‐mound jetties) are compared to a model developed in a ...

Abstract: A model for the propagation of sea and swell waves in a channel bounded by rubble‐mound jetties is presented. The model combines elements of earlier work on waves normally incident on a breakwater with a modified diffraction ...

Abstract: Extensive field observations are used to characterize seiches (periods 0.5–30 min) in three small harbors with similar surface areas (∼1 km

Abstract: A method is developed to estimate harbor seiche at Marina di Carrara, Italy, from the properties of wind-generated incident waves outside the harbor. A linear model of the spatial structure of amplified seiche modes is ...

Abstract: Comparison of predicted with observed attenuation of pressure fluctuations shows that wave heights can be estimated with observations from a pressure sensor that is buried a known depth in fine sand. The attenuation of ...

Abstract: Recent models for nearshore sediment transport suggest the importance of various moments of the fluid velocity field in determining transport rates. Using two days of field data from a low slope beach with moderate wave heights

Abstract: Wave energy estimated from linear, spectral wave propagation models incorporating refraction and refraction‐diffraction are compared over two bottom configurations: an analytic circular shoal and relatively smooth coastal ...

Abstract: Statistics of wave groups observed for a wide range of wave heights, power‐spectral shapes, and water depths are compared to the statistics predicted by both direct numerical simulation and analytic approximation of linear ...

Abstract: A technique to simulate non-Gaussian time series with a desired (“target”) power spectrum and bispectrum is applied to ocean waves. The targets were obtained from observed bottom pressure fluctuations of shoaling, nonbreaking ...

Abstract: The roles of frequency dispersion, nonlinearity, and laminar viscosity in the evolution of long waves over distances of many wavelengths in constant water depth are investigated with numerical solutions of the Boussinesq ...