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    Comparison of Spectral Refraction and Refraction‐Diffraction Wave Models

    Source: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering:;1991:;Volume ( 117 ):;issue: 003
    Author:
    W. C. O'Reilly
    ,
    R. T. Guza
    DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1991)117:3(199)
    Publisher: American Society of Civil Engineers
    Abstract: Wave energy estimated from linear, spectral wave propagation models incorporating refraction and refraction‐diffraction are compared over two bottom configurations: an analytic circular shoal and relatively smooth coastal bathymetry from San Diego, California. The agreement between the two models improves with an increase in the width of the incident directional spectrum and with a decrease in the complexity of the local bathymetry. There are, however, significant differences between the model transformations of directionally narrow spectra on both bathymerries. Pure refraction models are not quantitatively accurate in these cases. These comparisons also demonstrate the importance of directional wave spreading in transformations over even relatively simple natural bathymetry. Data from a fundamentally low‐resolution pitch‐and‐roll buoy, if used as the sole source of directional information for incident waves, can lead to significant uncertainty in wave heights estimated by the refraction‐diffraction model.
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      Comparison of Spectral Refraction and Refraction‐Diffraction Wave Models

    URI
    http://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl1/handle/yetl/40876
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    • Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering

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    contributor authorW. C. O'Reilly
    contributor authorR. T. Guza
    date accessioned2017-05-08T21:09:31Z
    date available2017-05-08T21:09:31Z
    date copyrightMay 1991
    date issued1991
    identifier other%28asce%290733-950x%281991%29117%3A3%28199%29.pdf
    identifier urihttp://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl/handle/yetl/40876
    description abstractWave energy estimated from linear, spectral wave propagation models incorporating refraction and refraction‐diffraction are compared over two bottom configurations: an analytic circular shoal and relatively smooth coastal bathymetry from San Diego, California. The agreement between the two models improves with an increase in the width of the incident directional spectrum and with a decrease in the complexity of the local bathymetry. There are, however, significant differences between the model transformations of directionally narrow spectra on both bathymerries. Pure refraction models are not quantitatively accurate in these cases. These comparisons also demonstrate the importance of directional wave spreading in transformations over even relatively simple natural bathymetry. Data from a fundamentally low‐resolution pitch‐and‐roll buoy, if used as the sole source of directional information for incident waves, can lead to significant uncertainty in wave heights estimated by the refraction‐diffraction model.
    publisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers
    titleComparison of Spectral Refraction and Refraction‐Diffraction Wave Models
    typeJournal Paper
    journal volume117
    journal issue3
    journal titleJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
    identifier doi10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1991)117:3(199)
    treeJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering:;1991:;Volume ( 117 ):;issue: 003
    contenttypeFulltext
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