Abstract: A new semi-Lagrangian advection scheme called multistep ray advection is proposed for solving the spectral energy balance equation of ocean surface gravity waves. Existing so-called piecewise ray methods advect wave energy ...

Abstract: This is Part 1 of a study of nonlinear effects on natural wind waves. Array measurements of pressure at the sea floor and middepth, collected 30 km offshore in 13-m depth, are compared to an existing theory for weakly ...

Abstract: In this paper, the combined effects of refraction and nonlinearity on the evolution of ocean surface wave statistics are considered and possible implications for the likelihood of extreme waves, also known as freak or rogue ...

Abstract: onlinear effects in Lagrangian sea surface motions are important to understanding variability in wave-induced mass transport, wave-driven diffusion processes, and the interpretation of measurements obtained with moored or ...

Abstract: Acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCPs) are widely used for routine measurements of ocean currents and waves in coastal environments. These instruments have the basic capability to measure surface wave frequency?directional ...

Abstract: Conventional observations of waves carried out with a buoy in open sea conditions were supplemented with simultaneous visual observations of whitecaps to identify breaking events in the buoy records. A statistical wave-by-wave ...

Abstract: An improved method for estimating the directional spectrum of linear surface gravity waves from in Situ observations is presented. The technique, a refinement and extension of the inverse method of Long and Hasselmann, is ...

Abstract: This is Part 2 of a study of nonlinear effects on natural wind-generated surface gravity waves in 13-m depth, 30 km offshore of Virginia. At the sea floor in this depth, free surface gravity waves are only weakly attenuated ...

Abstract: efractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. ...

Abstract: stimation of second-order, near-surface wave kinematics is important for interpretation of ocean surface remote sensing and surface-following instruments, determining loading on offshore structures, and understanding of ...