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    Statistics of Breaking Waves Observed as Whitecaps in the Open Sea

    Source: Journal of Physical Oceanography:;1986:;Volume( 016 ):;issue: 002::page 290
    Author:
    Holthuijsen, L. H.
    ,
    Herbers, T. H. C.
    DOI: 10.1175/1520-0485(1986)016<0290:SOBWOA>2.0.CO;2
    Publisher: American Meteorological Society
    Abstract: Conventional observations of waves carried out with a buoy in open sea conditions were supplemented with simultaneous visual observations of whitecaps to identify breaking events in the buoy records. A statistical wave-by-wave analysis of these records indicates that such seemingly obvious parameters as wave steepness or wave asymmetry cannot be used to separate breakers from nonbreakers and the breaking occurs at wave steepness values much less than the theoretically expected steepness of a limiting wave. The observed fraction of breaking waves varied from about 0.10 to about 0.16, depending on wind speed. Two-thirds of the breaking waves were breaking in one-third of the wave groups for which a Hrms-threshold definition was used.
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      Statistics of Breaking Waves Observed as Whitecaps in the Open Sea

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    http://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl1/handle/yetl/4163908
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    contributor authorHolthuijsen, L. H.
    contributor authorHerbers, T. H. C.
    date accessioned2017-06-09T14:47:46Z
    date available2017-06-09T14:47:46Z
    date copyright1986/02/01
    date issued1986
    identifier issn0022-3670
    identifier otherams-26957.pdf
    identifier urihttp://onlinelibrary.yabesh.ir/handle/yetl/4163908
    description abstractConventional observations of waves carried out with a buoy in open sea conditions were supplemented with simultaneous visual observations of whitecaps to identify breaking events in the buoy records. A statistical wave-by-wave analysis of these records indicates that such seemingly obvious parameters as wave steepness or wave asymmetry cannot be used to separate breakers from nonbreakers and the breaking occurs at wave steepness values much less than the theoretically expected steepness of a limiting wave. The observed fraction of breaking waves varied from about 0.10 to about 0.16, depending on wind speed. Two-thirds of the breaking waves were breaking in one-third of the wave groups for which a Hrms-threshold definition was used.
    publisherAmerican Meteorological Society
    titleStatistics of Breaking Waves Observed as Whitecaps in the Open Sea
    typeJournal Paper
    journal volume16
    journal issue2
    journal titleJournal of Physical Oceanography
    identifier doi10.1175/1520-0485(1986)016<0290:SOBWOA>2.0.CO;2
    journal fristpage290
    journal lastpage297
    treeJournal of Physical Oceanography:;1986:;Volume( 016 ):;issue: 002
    contenttypeFulltext
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    DSpace software copyright © 2002-2015  DuraSpace
    نرم افزار کتابخانه دیجیتال "دی اسپیس" فارسی شده توسط یابش برای کتابخانه های ایرانی | تماس با یابش
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