Spatial and Temporal Characteristics of Transient Extreme Wave Profiles on Depth-Varying Currents

Abstract

The results of laboratory experiments on transient (short lived), extreme (highest nonbreaking) waves on depth-varying currents are reported. A new feedback control wave focusing method on currents was developed to create transient, extreme waves in the presence of desired depth-varying currents at the prescribed position. Both wave profiles and time series of surface displacements were measured to examine the spatial and temporal characteristics of extreme waves. Wavelengths estimated from dispersion relations consistently underestimated those measured directly from the video images of transient extreme waves. This underestimation well correlates with a proposed wavelength asymmetry parameter