Space–Time Wave Extremes: The Role of Metocean Forcings

Abstract

ave observations and modeling have recently demonstrated that wave extremes of short-crested seas are poorly predicted by statistics of time records. Indeed, the highest waves pertain to wave groups at focusing that have space?time dynamics. Therefore, the statistical prediction of extremes of short-crested sea states should rely on the multidimensional random wave fields? assumption. To adapt wave extreme statistics to the space?time domain, theoretical models using parameters of the directional wave spectrum have been recently developed. In this paper, the influence of metocean forcings (wind conditions, ambient current, and bottom depth) on these parameters and hence on wave extremes is studied with a twofold strategy. First, parametric spectral formulations [Pierson?Moskowitz and Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) frequency spectra with cos2 directional distribution function] are considered to represent the dependence of wave extremes upon wind speed, fetch, and space domain size. Afterward, arbitrary conditions are simulated by using the SWAN numerical model adapted to store the spectral parameters, and the effects on extremes of current- and depth-induced shoaling are investigated. Preliminarily, the space?time extremes prediction model adopted is assessed by means of numerical simulations of Gaussian random seas. Compared to the significant wave height of the sea state and for a given space domain size, results show that space?time extremes are enhanced by opposite currents, whereas they are weakened by increasing wind conditions (wind speed and fetch) and by depth-induced shoaling. In this respect, the remarkable contribution to wave extremes of the size of the space domain is substantiated.