Field Observations of Surf Zone–Inner Shelf Exchange on a Rip-Channeled Beach

Abstract

ross-shore exchange between the surf zone and the inner shelf is investigated using Lagrangian and Eulerian field measurements of rip current flows on a rip-channeled beach in Sand City, California. Surface drifters released on the inner shelf during weak wind conditions moved seaward due to rip current pulses and then returned shoreward in an arcing pattern, reentering the surf zone over shoals. The cross-shore velocities of the seaward- and shoreward-moving drifters were approximately equal in magnitude and decreased as a function of distance offshore. The drifters carried seaward by the rip current had maximum cross-shore velocities as they exited the surf zone and then decelerated as they moved offshore. The drifters moving shoreward accelerated as they approached the surfzone boundary with maximum cross-shore velocities as they reentered the surf zone over shoals. It was found that Stokes drift was not solely responsible for the onshore transport across the surfzone boundary. The cross-shore diffusivity on the inner shelf was greatest during observations of locally contained cross-shore exchange. These field observations provide evidence that the cross-shore exchange between the surf zone and inner shelf on a rip-channeled beach is due to wave-driven rip current circulations and results in surface material being contained within the nearshore region.