Lagrangian Observations of Inner-Shelf Motions in Southern California: Can Surface Waves Decelerate Shoreward-Moving Drifters Just outside the Surf Zone?

Abstract

his study explores Eulerian and Lagrangian circulation during weak winds at two inner-shelf locations off the Southern California coast where the shoreline, shelf, wind, and wave characteristics differ from those in previous studies. In agreement with recent observational studies, wave-driven Eulerian offshore flow just outside the surf zone, referred to as undertow, is a substantial component of the net cross-shore circulation during periods of weak winds. Drifter observations show onshore surface flow, likely due to light onshore winds, and a consistent decrease in onshore velocity of roughly 4 cm s?1 within a few hundred meters of the surf zone. Undertow is examined as a possible explanation for the observed Lagrangian decelerations. Model results suggest that, even when waves are small, undertow can decrease the velocity of shoreward-moving drifters by >2 cm s?1, roughly half the observed deceleration. The coastal boundary condition also has the potential to contribute to the observed decelerations. Subtracting predicted Stokes drift velocities from the Lagrangian drifter observations improves the agreement between the drifter observations and coincident Eulerian ADCP observations.