Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves

Abstract

Estimates of the wave directional spectrum of fetch-limited sea states are made from measurements made with a heave?pitch?roll buoy at the Maui location off the west coast of New Zealand. The fetch-limited sea states have significant wave heights between 0.5 and 4.5 m and are observed during persistent southeast wind events, which have a well-defined fetch of 200 km. The integrated properties of the estimated angular spreading distributions are in general agreement with those observed in previous studies. However, the angular distributions estimated for the Maui location are bimodal at frequencies greater than the spectral peak frequency. This result for deep water ocean waves is in contrast to the generally accepted unimodal angular distribution for wind seas, but it supports recently reported measurements of the angular distribution of fetch-limited waves in Lake George, Australia. Parametric relationships that describe the characteristics of the bimodal distributions are derived, and the importance of the bimodality for some applications is discussed.