Expected Structure of Extreme Waves in a Gaussian Sea. Part I: Theory and SWADE Buoy MeasurementsSource: Journal of Physical Oceanography:;1993:;Volume( 023 ):;issue: 005::page 992DOI: 10.1175/1520-0485(1993)023<0992:ESOEWI>2.0.CO;2Publisher: American Meteorological Society
Abstract: This paper is concerned with the expected configuration in space and time surrounding extremely high crests in a random wave field, or, equivalently, the mean configuration averaged over realizations of extreme events. A simple, approximate theory is presented that predicts that the mean configuration ??(x + r, t + τ) surrounding a crest at (x, t) that is higher than ?σ (where σ is the overall rms surface displacement and ? ? 1), when normalized by ??(x,t) for ? > ?σ, is the space-time autocorrelation function ?(r, t) = ??(x, t)?(x + r, t + τ)/ ??2 for the entire wave field. This extends and simplifies an earlier result due to Boccotti and is consistent with a precise calculation of the one-dimensional case with r = 0, involving the time history of measurements at a single point. The results are compared with buoy data obtained during the Surface Wave Dynamics Experiment and the agreement is found to be remarkably good.
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contributor author | Phillips, O. M. | |
contributor author | Gu, Daifang | |
contributor author | Donelan, Mark | |
date accessioned | 2017-06-09T14:50:41Z | |
date available | 2017-06-09T14:50:41Z | |
date copyright | 1993/05/01 | |
date issued | 1993 | |
identifier issn | 0022-3670 | |
identifier other | ams-28023.pdf | |
identifier uri | http://onlinelibrary.yabesh.ir/handle/yetl/4165094 | |
description abstract | This paper is concerned with the expected configuration in space and time surrounding extremely high crests in a random wave field, or, equivalently, the mean configuration averaged over realizations of extreme events. A simple, approximate theory is presented that predicts that the mean configuration ??(x + r, t + τ) surrounding a crest at (x, t) that is higher than ?σ (where σ is the overall rms surface displacement and ? ? 1), when normalized by ??(x,t) for ? > ?σ, is the space-time autocorrelation function ?(r, t) = ??(x, t)?(x + r, t + τ)/ ??2 for the entire wave field. This extends and simplifies an earlier result due to Boccotti and is consistent with a precise calculation of the one-dimensional case with r = 0, involving the time history of measurements at a single point. The results are compared with buoy data obtained during the Surface Wave Dynamics Experiment and the agreement is found to be remarkably good. | |
publisher | American Meteorological Society | |
title | Expected Structure of Extreme Waves in a Gaussian Sea. Part I: Theory and SWADE Buoy Measurements | |
type | Journal Paper | |
journal volume | 23 | |
journal issue | 5 | |
journal title | Journal of Physical Oceanography | |
identifier doi | 10.1175/1520-0485(1993)023<0992:ESOEWI>2.0.CO;2 | |
journal fristpage | 992 | |
journal lastpage | 1000 | |
tree | Journal of Physical Oceanography:;1993:;Volume( 023 ):;issue: 005 | |
contenttype | Fulltext |