An Observation of the Directional Wave Spectrum Evolution from Shoreline to Fully Developed

Abstract

The Surface Contour Radar (SCR) is a 36-GHz computer-controlled airborne system, which produces ocean directional wave spectra with much higher angular resolution than pitch-and-roll buoys. SCR observations of the evolution of the fetch-limited directional wave spectrum are presented which indicate the existence of a fully-developed sea state. The JONSWAP wave growth model for wave energy and frequency was in best agreement with the SCR measurements. The model of Donelan et al. correctly predicted the propagation direction of waves in the asymmetrical fetch situation nearshore. The Donelan et al. parameterization is generalized to permit other growth algorithms to predict the correct direction of propagation in asymmetrical fetch situations.