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    Detection of Breaking Events in a Wind-Generated Wave Field

    Source: Journal of Physical Oceanography:;1984:;Volume( 014 ):;issue: 010::page 1608
    Author:
    Weissman, M. A.
    ,
    Ataktürk, S. S.
    ,
    Katsaros, K. B.
    DOI: 10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1608:DOBEIA>2.0.CO;2
    Publisher: American Meteorological Society
    Abstract: Measurements were made of the surface elevation of a fetch-limited wave field (fetch 7 km, wind speed about 6 m s?1). Good high-frequency response was attained by the use of a very thin, bare wire probe of diameter 0.13 mm. Breaking waves were detected based on the energy in the 18?32 Hz frequency band. An appropriate threshold was found by a trial and error method. General agreement was found with visual observations. The temporal intermittency of wave breaking (fraction of time spent in breaking regions) was found to be 1.2%;however, the fraction of high-frequency (5?50 Hz) energy in those region was 12%. An argument is presented to show that the spatial intermittency and the spatial energy fraction should have the same values. The mean crest height of the breaking waves was found to be much lower than expected from theoretical considerations (by a factor of 4).
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      Detection of Breaking Events in a Wind-Generated Wave Field

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    http://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl1/handle/yetl/4163691
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    contributor authorWeissman, M. A.
    contributor authorAtaktürk, S. S.
    contributor authorKatsaros, K. B.
    date accessioned2017-06-09T14:47:14Z
    date available2017-06-09T14:47:14Z
    date copyright1984/10/01
    date issued1984
    identifier issn0022-3670
    identifier otherams-26761.pdf
    identifier urihttp://onlinelibrary.yabesh.ir/handle/yetl/4163691
    description abstractMeasurements were made of the surface elevation of a fetch-limited wave field (fetch 7 km, wind speed about 6 m s?1). Good high-frequency response was attained by the use of a very thin, bare wire probe of diameter 0.13 mm. Breaking waves were detected based on the energy in the 18?32 Hz frequency band. An appropriate threshold was found by a trial and error method. General agreement was found with visual observations. The temporal intermittency of wave breaking (fraction of time spent in breaking regions) was found to be 1.2%;however, the fraction of high-frequency (5?50 Hz) energy in those region was 12%. An argument is presented to show that the spatial intermittency and the spatial energy fraction should have the same values. The mean crest height of the breaking waves was found to be much lower than expected from theoretical considerations (by a factor of 4).
    publisherAmerican Meteorological Society
    titleDetection of Breaking Events in a Wind-Generated Wave Field
    typeJournal Paper
    journal volume14
    journal issue10
    journal titleJournal of Physical Oceanography
    identifier doi10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1608:DOBEIA>2.0.CO;2
    journal fristpage1608
    journal lastpage1619
    treeJournal of Physical Oceanography:;1984:;Volume( 014 ):;issue: 010
    contenttypeFulltext
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