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    Observations of Wave Transformation near Breaking

    Source: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering:;1997:;Volume ( 123 ):;issue: 005
    Author:
    Charles L. Vincent
    ,
    Robert E. Jensen
    DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1997)123:5(249)
    Publisher: American Society of Civil Engineers
    Abstract: Analysis of the change in the spectrum of wind waves over a 5-km reach just prior to the surf zone during a major extratropical storm indicates that significant shifts in the spectral distribution of wave energy occur. For both onshore and offshore winds, the midrange of the spectrum loses up to 40% of the energy content, while the lowand high-frequency ranges have an energy gain. In the onshore case, gain in the high-frequency range dominates, and in the offshore wind case (predominant wave energy propagation is still shoreward), gain in the low-frequency region dominates.
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      Observations of Wave Transformation near Breaking

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    http://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl1/handle/yetl/41205
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    • Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering

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    contributor authorCharles L. Vincent
    contributor authorRobert E. Jensen
    date accessioned2017-05-08T21:10:02Z
    date available2017-05-08T21:10:02Z
    date copyrightSeptember 1997
    date issued1997
    identifier other%28asce%290733-950x%281997%29123%3A5%28249%29.pdf
    identifier urihttp://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl/handle/yetl/41205
    description abstractAnalysis of the change in the spectrum of wind waves over a 5-km reach just prior to the surf zone during a major extratropical storm indicates that significant shifts in the spectral distribution of wave energy occur. For both onshore and offshore winds, the midrange of the spectrum loses up to 40% of the energy content, while the lowand high-frequency ranges have an energy gain. In the onshore case, gain in the high-frequency range dominates, and in the offshore wind case (predominant wave energy propagation is still shoreward), gain in the low-frequency region dominates.
    publisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers
    titleObservations of Wave Transformation near Breaking
    typeJournal Paper
    journal volume123
    journal issue5
    journal titleJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
    identifier doi10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1997)123:5(249)
    treeJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering:;1997:;Volume ( 123 ):;issue: 005
    contenttypeFulltext
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