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    Analytical Determination of Wave Height Variation

    Source: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering:;1984:;Volume ( 110 ):;issue: 002
    Author:
    Peter Nielsen
    DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1984)110:2(283)
    Publisher: American Society of Civil Engineers
    Abstract: Explicit equations based on the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to derive an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation due to shoaling, refraction and frictional dissipation on a beach with straight, parallel contours where the depth is a power function of the distance from the shoreline. The solution is simple enough to be handled by a handheld calculator and as accurate as the underlying linear wave theory justifies.
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      Analytical Determination of Wave Height Variation

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    http://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl1/handle/yetl/40373
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    • Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering

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    contributor authorPeter Nielsen
    date accessioned2017-05-08T21:08:44Z
    date available2017-05-08T21:08:44Z
    date copyrightMay 1984
    date issued1984
    identifier other%28asce%290733-950x%281984%29110%3A2%28283%29.pdf
    identifier urihttp://yetl.yabesh.ir/yetl/handle/yetl/40373
    description abstractExplicit equations based on the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to derive an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation due to shoaling, refraction and frictional dissipation on a beach with straight, parallel contours where the depth is a power function of the distance from the shoreline. The solution is simple enough to be handled by a handheld calculator and as accurate as the underlying linear wave theory justifies.
    publisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers
    titleAnalytical Determination of Wave Height Variation
    typeJournal Paper
    journal volume110
    journal issue2
    journal titleJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
    identifier doi10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1984)110:2(283)
    treeJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering:;1984:;Volume ( 110 ):;issue: 002
    contenttypeFulltext
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