Abstract: A long-term dataset of satellite altimeter measurements of significant wave height and wind speed, spanning 23 years, is analyzed to determine extreme values corresponding to a 100-yr return period. The analysis considers ...

Abstract: Since 1985, for a period of more than 23 yr, seven altimeter missions have provided global coverage of significant wave height and wind speed. This study undertakes a long-term analysis of the accuracy and stability of ...

Abstract: The response of a wind-sea spectrum to a step function change in wind direction is investigated theoretically for a sequence of direction changes ranging from 30° to 180°, in increments of 30°. Two spectral energy balance ...

Abstract: ltimeter data from transects across the Southern Ocean are analyzed to determine the decay of oceanic swell. The resulting decay rate is shown to be proportional to wavenumber squared and swell amplitude cubed. Such a decay ...

Abstract: This paper is dedicated to the investigation and calibration of the parameterized form for the wind-input source term Sin proposed earlier on the basis of field observations at Lake George, Australia. The main objective ...

Abstract: Numerical simulations of the wind-wave spectrum evolution are conducted by means of new observation-based wind-input and wave dissipation functions obtained in the Lake George field experiment. This experiment allowed ...

Abstract: volution of nonlinear wave groups to breaking under wind forcing was studied by means of a fully nonlinear numerical model and in a laboratory experiment. Dependence of distance to breaking and modulation depth (height ...

Abstract: Progression of nonlinear wave groups to breaking was studied numerically and experimentally. Evolution of such wave group parameters as a function of distance to breaking and modulation depth?the height ratio of the highest ...