Abstract: To study the dispersion relation of short wind waves, a linear wave gauge array (WGA) is configured and mounted on a wave-following buoy to conduct in situ space?time measurements of short gravity waves. Results from two ...

Abstract: Recent results of numerical wave models have shown that the presence of a bimodal directional spreading is a robust feature at wavenumbers above the spectral peak. This directional bimodality is controlled mainly by ...

Abstract: Field observations show that the crosswind component constitutes a significant portion of the ocean surface mean square slope. The average ratio between the crosswind and upwind mean square slope components is 0.88 in ...

Abstract: Coexistence of wind sea generated locally and swell radiated from distant storms often results in double-peaked or multiple-peaked spectra. Identification and separation of the wave energies of wind sea and swell provide ...

Abstract: A methodology for quantitative, directional validation of a long-term wave model hindcast is described and applied. Buoy observations are used as ground truth and the method does not require the application of a parametric ...

Abstract: The issue of duration-limited growth of wind-generated waves is of importance to wave studies. Most analytical solutions for wind waves are given in time rather than fetch domain. Numerical modeling of wave development is ...

Abstract: Recently, directional wave spectra have been obtained by applying the two-dimensional fast Fourier transform (2D FFT) to the three-dimensional spatial topography of ocean surface waves collected by an airborne scanning ...

Abstract: Wave growth and decay characteristics in a typical wave action model [Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)] are investigated in this paper. This study is motivated by generally poor agreement between model results and ...

Abstract: Evolution of a thermally stratified diurnal warm layer (DWL), including the formation and decay of a daytime surface-layer jet, high-frequency internal waves, and mixing were examined from observations collected during ...