Abstract: Wave energy estimated from linear, spectral wave propagation models incorporating refraction and refraction‐diffraction are compared over two bottom configurations: an analytic circular shoal and relatively smooth coastal ...

Abstract: Alongshore gradients in wave energy and propagation direction were observed near a pier that extends 500 m from the Duck, N.C., shoreline to about 6-m water depth. When incident waves approached the beach obliquely, wave ...