Abstract: n coastal areas and on beaches, nonlinear effects in ocean waves are dominated by so-called triad interactions. These effects can result in large energy transfers across the wave spectrum and result in non-Gaussian wave ...

Abstract: he interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in inhomogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. ...

Abstract: efractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. ...

Abstract: stimation of second-order, near-surface wave kinematics is important for interpretation of ocean surface remote sensing and surface-following instruments, determining loading on offshore structures, and understanding of ...

Abstract: high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral ...