Abstract: The influence of local wind on nearshore breaking waves was investigated in a laboratory wave‐wind flume. The breaker location, geometry, and type were found to depend strongly upon the wind direction. Onshore winds cause ...

Abstract: A very simple, conceptual explanation of the cause of down‐drift offset inlets is presented. Sheltering of a time‐varying wave climate by the inlet's ebb‐tidal shoal causes the offset. Wave sheltering is defined to include ...

Abstract: The limit of run-up on beaches has important coastal engineering and management implications. However, existing guidance on estimating run-up on sandy beaches is sparse and is based on parameters and models developed for ...

Abstract: A model for the migration of submerged mounds constructed offshore of the day-to-day surf zone but within the depths disturbed by waves during storm events is developed. The model considers net shoreward sand transport due ...

Abstract: In comparison with wave modeling on an open coast, the complex geometry and bathymetry of estuaries, the unsteady conditions associated with estuarine circulation generated by tides and winds, and the relatively inadequate ...

Abstract: Longshore‐sand transport rates in the vicinity of Indian River Inlet, Delaware are calculated from the Corps of Engineers' Wave Information Study (WIS) wave hindcast data. The longshore transport rate data are divided into ...