Abstract: The wave‐induced seepage flow in a porous seabed in the neighborhood of a gravity structure is solved exactly by two‐dimensional potential flow theory. The distribution of the hydrodynamic pore‐water pressure along the ...

Abstract: Diffraction of solitary waves by a semi‐infinite thin barrier is studied both theoretically and experimentally. A theoretical solution is developed based on the linear shallow water wave theory. The linear wave theory ...

Abstract: The effects of laminar viscosity on the evolution of a steady Stokes wave train are investigated by employing a boundary‐layer method. It is assumed that the nonlinearity of the second order in the wave slope,

Abstract: The flow motion of incompressible fluid can be described by Navier-Stokes equations with the continuity equation, which requires zero divergence of the velocity vector (i.e., ∂

Abstract: A numerical model based on the parabolic approximation method is developed to calculate the wave characteristics in the nearshore region. The model is developed for monochromatic linear waves and considers refraction, ...

Abstract: The method of matched asymptotic expansion is used to develop theoretical solutions for the diffraction of oblique incident waves by an infinite vertical barrier with a small submerged slit in constant water depth. The ...

Abstract: A numerical model describing wave‐induced mean sea level variations and coastal currents in the nearshore region is developed by the finite element method. The model includes nonlinear convective accelerations, lateral ...

Abstract: A numerical model for computing wave propagations between two breakwaters is presented. Each breakwater consists of one or two straight‐line segments. Water depth varies in space. The numerical model is based on the parabolic ...

Abstract: Based on Boussinesq equations and parabolic approximation, the forward diffraction of cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between ...