Abstract: Explicit equations based on the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to derive an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation due to shoaling, refraction and frictional dissipation on a beach with ...

Abstract: An evaluation is given of the methods of modeling concentration profiles of suspended non-cohesive sediments in natural streams and under waves. The bottom boundary condition and the distribution ...

Abstract: Local approximations are recommended as a tool for the analysis of natural water waves. The particular class of local approximations described is based on local fitting of a sine curve, which leads naturally to the definition ...