Abstract: Inverse methods are used to assimilate wave observations into numerical predictions of ocean swell (0.04?0.12 Hz surface waves) propagating over complex continental shelf bathymetry. Model predictions of swell on the shelf ...

Abstract: A hybrid Eulerian?Lagrangian wave model is presented that solves the spectral energy balance equation for surface gravity waves in varying depth. The energy of each spectral component is advected along (Lagrangian) ray ...

Abstract: Detonations at the depth of the sound channel axis off Perth, Australia were recorded on Bermuda hydrophones at a 178°.2 range (180° is antipodal). The analysis by Shockley et al. of this 1960 transmission experiment allows ...

Abstract: In Part I, the energy levels of ocean surface waves at infragravity frequencies (nominally 0.005?0.05 Hz) locally forced by swell in 13-m water depth were shown to be predicted accurately by second-order nonlinear wave ...

Abstract: State-of-the-art parameterizations of the interactions of waves with a sandy bottom are evaluated using extensive field observations of swell evolution across the North Carolina continental shelf and hindcasts performed ...

Abstract: Extensive wave measurements were collected on the North Carolina?Virginia continental shelf in the autumn of 1999. Comparisons of observations and spectral refraction computations reveal strong cross-shelf decay of energetic ...

Abstract: The performance of the Datawell Directional Waverider and the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) 3-m discus buoy, widely used to measure the directional properties of surface gravity waves, are evaluated through comparisons ...

Abstract: Beach erosion and wave-induced flooding models are often initialized in O(10)-m depth, seaward of the surfzone, with wave conditions estimated from regional nonlinear spectral wave models [e.g., Simulating Waves Nearshore ...