Abstract: There have been several numerical models developed to represent the phase-averaged flow in the surf zone which is characterized by kD less than unity where k is wave number and D is the water column depth. The classic ...

Abstract: here exist different theories representing the effects of surface gravity waves on oceanic flow fields. In the past, the author has conjectured that the vertically integrated, two-dimensional fluid equations of motion put ...

Abstract: he paper focuses on the consequences of including surface and subsurface, wind-forced pressure?slope momentum transfer into the oceanic water column, a transfer process that competes with now-conventional turbulence transfer ...

Abstract: AbstractThe comments of Ardhuin et al. concerning the papers by Mellor from 2003 and 2015 are reviewed. It is found that the comments do not impact the validity of these papers.

Abstract: A turbulence closure model is applied to the case of an oscillating boundary layer; model calculations compare favorably with data. Wave-induced oscillations can be temporally resolved in a one-dimensional model but not ...

Abstract: Surface wave equations appropriate to three-dimensional ocean models apparently have not been presented in the literature. It is the intent of this paper to correct that deficiency. Thus, expressions for vertically dependent ...

Abstract: tract