Abstract: A process-based numerical model has been used to study nearshore hydrodynamics on barred beaches. A laboratory experiment with an offshore bar migration case followed by an onshore bar migration is simulated. A new mechanism ...

Abstract: This paper describes nonintrusive optical techniques to measure large-scale

Abstract: The behavior of rip currents with changing bar and gap lengths was tested in a series of laboratory experiments using video-tracked floating drifters. Qualitatively, currents showed strong differences in overall character ...

Abstract: Primary waves produced by large ships in confined waterways can threaten the sustainability and safety of coastal regions near maritime shipping routes, but the present understanding and predictability of primary wave ...

Abstract: A process is described for computation of bathymetry in and near the surf zone, from spatially varying celerity and breakpoint location data. The procedure involves the use of three submodels: (1) a wave shoaling model ...