Abstract: In this paper, the combined effects of refraction and nonlinearity on the evolution of ocean surface wave statistics are considered and possible implications for the likelihood of extreme waves, also known as freak or rogue ...

Abstract: onlinear effects in Lagrangian sea surface motions are important to understanding variability in wave-induced mass transport, wave-driven diffusion processes, and the interpretation of measurements obtained with moored or ...

Abstract: n coastal areas and on beaches, nonlinear effects in ocean waves are dominated by so-called triad interactions. These effects can result in large energy transfers across the wave spectrum and result in non-Gaussian wave ...

Abstract: he interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in inhomogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. ...

Abstract: efractive focusing of swell waves can result in fast-scale variations in the wave statistics because of wave interference, which cannot be resolved by stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport equation. ...

Abstract: stimation of second-order, near-surface wave kinematics is important for interpretation of ocean surface remote sensing and surface-following instruments, determining loading on offshore structures, and understanding of ...

Abstract: urface-following buoys are widely used to collect routine ocean wave measurements. While accelerometer and tilt sensors have been used for decades to measure the wave-induced buoy displacements, alternative global positioning ...