Abstract: Velocity measurements within 1 m of the bottom in approximately 4.5-m water depth on a sand beach provide estimates of turbulent Reynolds shear stress, using a dual-sensor technique that removes contamination by surface ...

Abstract: Measurements from a horizontal array of velocity sensors indicate that the alongshore scales of turbulence contributing to the near-bottom Reynolds stress just seaward of the surf zone on an ocean beach range from 0 to ...

Abstract: Low-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and 4.0 mHz) observed in shallow ...

Abstract: Statistics of the nearshore velocity field in the wind?wave frequency band estimated from acoustic Doppler, acoustic travel time, and electromagnetic current meters are similar. Specifically, current meters deployed 25?100 ...

Abstract: Inverse models are developed that use data and dynamics to estimate optimally the breaking-wave-driven setup and alongshore current, as well as the cross-shore forcing, alongshore forcing, and drag coefficient. The inverse ...

Abstract: Low-salinity water from Chesapeake Bay forms an intermittent buoyant gravity current that propagates more than 100 km southward along the coast. During five events when wind and surface gravity-wave forcing were weak, the ...

Abstract: The spectral energy balance of ocean surface waves breaking on a natural beach is examined with field observations from a cross-shore array of pressure sensors deployed between the shoreline and the outer edge of the surf ...

Abstract: AbstractAlthough rip currents are a major hazard for beachgoers, the relationship between the danger to swimmers and the physical properties of rip current circulation is not well understood. Here, the relationship between ...

Abstract: The shoaling evolution of wave spectra on a beach with straight and parallel depth contours is investigated with a stochastic Boussinesq model. Existing deterministic Boussinesq models cast in the form of coupled evolution ...

Abstract: In Part I, the energy levels of ocean surface waves at infragravity frequencies (nominally 0.005?0.05 Hz) locally forced by swell in 13-m water depth were shown to be predicted accurately by second-order nonlinear wave ...