Abstract: A method for estimating an upperbound on the total energy of the wind wave spectrum in shallow water is extended to define a depth‐controlled zero‐moment wave height for irregular waves. The method requires an estimate of ...

Abstract: Analysis of the change in the spectrum of wind waves over a 5-km reach just prior to the surf zone during a major extratropical storm indicates that significant shifts in the spectral distribution of wave energy occur. For ...

Abstract: Wave observations made during an October 1990 storm on the North Carolina coast are used to investigate the evolution of wind waves as they propagate from about 48 m to 8.5 m of water. The observations include height, ...

Abstract: In 1989 Vincent and Briggs found that irregular waves with directional spread typical of natural wave systems were not as strongly focused behind a shoal as would be predicted from use of monochromatic waves. These conclusions ...

Abstract: New developments in the area of shallow water wave spectra have aided in the derivation of an equation for the limiting wave height in the case of fully saturated wind seas in shallow water. The result is very similar to ...

Abstract: The transformation of monochromatic and directionally‐spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound was studied in a controlled laboratory experiment. A directional spectral wave generator was used to ...

Abstract: Shoaling and decay of irregular wave trains with two distinct frequency peaks are simulated in a wave flume. The relative energy in each wave train, the closeness of the frequency peaks, and the total wave energy were ...

Abstract: A three-dimensional, physical model study of wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater was conducted using a directional spectral wave generator. Both regular and irregular waves with narrow and broad frequency ...