Diffraction of Waves in Caustics

Abstract

A model has been developed to describe wave climate in the areas of caustics where wave diffraction as well as refraction have important influences on wave propagation. Wave conditions are determined by solving the kinematic and dynamic conservation equations, which have been modified to include the effects of diffraction process. An approximate representation of nonlinear effect is also included by employing an empirical dispersion relation. The model is tested against laboratory measurements for the case of submerged circular islands on a slope, where both refraction and diffraction are equally significant, and shown to give good results.