Cross-Shore Redistribution of Nourished Sand near a Breaker Bar

Abstract

This paper focuses on the optimal location for dumping nourished sand on a barred coastline. This is done by investigating the short-term behavior of the cross-shore redistribution of nourished sediment on a breaker-bar profile in a two-dimensional vertical plane. This is achieved by the use of a complete numerical description of the surf-zone processes with respect to both hydrodynamics and sediment transport. The numerical model is based on the finite-volume approach with a free surface-tracking method, also known as the volume of fluid (VOF), and the sediment transport is calculated applying the Engelund and Fredsøe deterministic concept. The methodology is as follows: a Dean/Bruun equilibrium profile is exposed to regular waves (chosen as