Distributions of Wave Heights in Time Domain in Stationary Sea States

Abstract

About 6,300,000 pressure head waves beneath the sea surface were recorded by an array of 26 transducers aligned orthogonally to the coastline of Reggio Calabria, Italy. The data set covered spectra from very narrow unimodal to very broad multimodal and waves from shallow to deep waters. Herein, the quasi-determinism (QD) theory is proven to be very effective in predicting the probability of large-wave heights as well as the period and particle acceleration of these waves both on deep and shallow waters. In addition, the Tayfun model for predicting the probability of large-wave heights is also proven to be highly effective.