Influence of Channel Shape on Wave-Generated Parameters by a Pressure Source in Shallow Water

Abstract

The present work is a numerical investigation into the waves generated by a pressure source moving in straight channels with a nonrectangular cross-channel depth profile. Wave fields generated by the moving pressure source are described, and the effects of channel bathymetry on the generated wave characteristics of wave height, wave-breaking location, wave-breaking type and intensity, and peel angle are presented. Four different channel cross-section shapes were investigated, and the results were analyzed. It was concluded that the maximum wave height depended primarily on pressure-source parameters and that the investigated channel shapes did not have a significant effect on the maximum wave height. All four investigated channels were able to generate plunging-shaped breaking waves. In addition, wave-breaking intensity and barrel shape could be controlled by beach-slope shape; however, beach slope did not have a considerable effect on the wave-breaking location. The width of the deep section of the channel had a significant effect on the breaking location. Widening the deep section of the channel moved the breaking point farther from the pressure source. According to the simulation results, it is possible to generate waves for an intermediate or expert surfer only by changing the pressure-source speed. According to the results, by changing the pressure-source speed, the peel angle changes, which is the best way to change the required skill level for surfing. In addition, changing the channel shape did not have a significant effect on the required skill level for surfing.