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contributor authorToffoli, A.
contributor authorMonbaliu, J.
contributor authorOnorato, M.
contributor authorOsborne, A. R.
contributor authorBabanin, A. V.
contributor authorBitner-Gregersen, E.
date accessioned2017-06-09T16:20:09Z
date available2017-06-09T16:20:09Z
date copyright2007/11/01
date issued2007
identifier issn0022-3670
identifier otherams-65974.pdf
identifier urihttp://onlinelibrary.yabesh.ir/handle/yetl/4207258
description abstractThe second-order, three-dimensional, finite-depth wave theory is here used to investigate the statistical properties of the surface elevation and wave crests of field data from Lake George, Australia. A direct comparison of experimental and numerical data shows that, as long as the nonlinearity is small, the second-order model describes the statistical properties of field data very accurately. By low-pass filtering the Lake George time series, there is evidence that some energetic wave groups are accompanied by a setup instead of a setdown. A numerical study of the coupling coefficient of the second-order model reveals that such an experimental result is consistent with the second-order theory, provided directional spreading is included in the wave spectrum. In particular, the coupling coefficient of the second-order difference contribution predicts a setup as a result of the interaction of two waves with the same frequency but with different directions. This result is also confirmed by numerical simulations. Bispectral analysis, furthermore, indicates that this setup is a statistically significant feature of the observed wave records.
publisherAmerican Meteorological Society
titleSecond-Order Theory and Setup in Surface Gravity Waves: A Comparison with Experimental Data
typeJournal Paper
journal volume37
journal issue11
journal titleJournal of Physical Oceanography
identifier doi10.1175/2007JPO3634.1
journal fristpage2726
journal lastpage2739
treeJournal of Physical Oceanography:;2007:;Volume( 037 ):;issue: 011
contenttypeFulltext


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