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contributor authorWeber, B. L.
contributor authorBarrick, D. E.
date accessioned2017-06-09T14:44:25Z
date available2017-06-09T14:44:25Z
date copyright1977/01/01
date issued1977
identifier issn0022-3670
identifier otherams-25664.pdf
identifier urihttp://onlinelibrary.yabesh.ir/handle/yetl/4162472
description abstractA general hydrodynamic solution is derived for arbitrary gravity-wave fields on the ocean surface by extending Stokes' (1847) original perturbational analysis. The solution to the nonlinear equations of motion is made possible by assuming that the surface height is periodic in both space and time and thus can be described by a Fourier series. The assumption of periodicity does not limit the generality of the result because the series can be made to approach an integral representation by taking arbitrarily large fundamental periods with respect to periods of the dominant ocean waves actually present on the surface. The observation areas and times over which this analysis applies are assumed small, however, compared to the periods required for energy exchange processes; hence an ?energy balance? (or steady-state) condition is assumed to exist within the observed space-time intervals. This in turn implies the condition of statistical stationarity of the Fourier height coefficients when one generalizes to a random surface. Part I confines itself to the formulation of a perturbation solution (valid to all orders) for the higher order terms resulting from a two-dimensional arbitrary periodic description of the surface height. The method is demonstrated by deriving (to second order) the height correction to the sea and (to third order) the first nonzero correction to the lowest order gravity-wave dispersion relation.
publisherAmerican Meteorological Society
titleOn the Nonlinear Theory for Gravity Waves on the Ocean's Surface. Part I: Derivations
typeJournal Paper
journal volume7
journal issue1
journal titleJournal of Physical Oceanography
identifier doi10.1175/1520-0485(1977)007<0003:OTNTFG>2.0.CO;2
journal fristpage3
journal lastpage10
treeJournal of Physical Oceanography:;1977:;Volume( 007 ):;issue: 001
contenttypeFulltext


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