Numerical Prediction of Wave Transformation

Abstract

A numerical model based on the parabolic approximation method is developed to calculate the wave characteristics in the nearshore region. The model is developed for monochromatic linear waves and considers refraction, diffraction, and energy dissipation caused by the bottom turbulent boundary layer. A numerical algorithm is also proposed to treat digitized bathymetry data. The accuracy of the present model is verified by comparing numerical results with two sets of field measurements collected by the Coastal Engineering Research Center along its research pier at Duck, North Carolina.