Shallow Water Wave Height Parameters

Abstract

Experimental evidence shows that two commonly-used estimates of significant wave height behave differently during the shoaling process. Further, the estimates behave differently for monochromatic and irregular wave conditions. Although the mechanics that force these differences are not fully understood, it is important to recognize that the differences exist. It is also vital to identify which wave height parameters are of interest in a study and to assure that they are treated in a consistent manner.