Abstract: A difference scheme for the mild-slope wave equation that governs the combined diffraction and refraction of nearshore waves is derived based on the finite analytic method. The nine-point scheme expresses the value of the ...

Abstract: Diffraction of water waves by porous breakwaters is studied based on the linear potential wave theory. The formulation of the problem includes a newly derived relation for the fluid motion through thin porous structures ...

Abstract: The combined diffraction and refraction of long waves around a vertical cylinder with scour pit is studied analytically on the basis of a newly derived analytic solution of the mild-slope wave equation. The geometry of the ...

Abstract: AbstractSelective consensus and a grand ensemble based on an ensemble prediction system (EPS) have been found to be effective in improving deterministic tropical cyclone (TC) track forecasts, while little attention has ...

Abstract: Wave scattering over a horizontally submerged circular disk is analyzed by the linear potential wave theory. By means of the method of separation of variables, harmonic expressions of the velocity potential in terms of ...

Abstract: Linear potential theory is applied to the analysis of wave motion through a two‐layer porous structure. For special cases, the characteristics of waves in nondissipative, weakly, as well as strongly, dissipative media and ...

Abstract: Wave motion over a submerged porous plate is studied by the boundary‐element method based on the linear potential wave theory. The boundary condition at the porous plate is formulated under the assumption that the flow ...

Abstract: Wave‐induced oscillation in a semicircular harbor with porous breakwaters is studied on the basis of the linear potential wave theory and a newly derived boundary condition for the breakwaters. By separation of variables, ...

Abstract: The inceptive condition for wave breaking over a submerged horizontal plate is proposed. The incident wave parameter

Abstract: Wave transformations over a coral reef with a steep front slope were comparatively studied using both laboratory tests and smoothed particle hydrodynamic (SPH) modeling. In the numerical model, nonreflective generation and ...