Abstract: The influence of the directional distribution of wave energy on the dispersion relation is calculated numerically using various directional wave spectrum models. The results indicate that the dispersion relation varies ...

Abstract: Interactions between steady non-uniform currents and gravity waves are generalized to include the case of a random gravity wave field. The Kitaigorodskii-Pierson-Moskowitz frequency spectrum is used as the basic spectral ...

Abstract: Using a threshold criterion governing the onset of wave breaking, we derived an analytical expression for the whitecap coverage of the ocean. This expression is a function of the wave steepness in terms of the significant ...