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Rederivation of the Saturation Range in the Frequency Spectrum of Wind-Generated Gravity Waves
Publisher: American Meteorological Society
Abstract: The saturation range in the frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves is rederived. Laboratory and theoretical work show that wave breaking is the result of kinematic instability, suggesting that wave celerity is the ...
Surf Zone Longshore Currents and Random Waves: Field Data and Models
Publisher: American Meteorological Society
Abstract: Analytic and numerical models for longshore currents generated by obliquely incident random waves am compared with field observations. Five days of observations were selected during which the waves were narrow banded in ...
The Vertical Structure of Low-Frequency Motions in the Nearshore. Part I: Observations
Publisher: American Meteorological Society
Abstract: ield observations of oscillating currents in the surfzone of a natural beach show significant vertical structure in energy, phase, and rotation at low frequencies around 0.005 Hz, where most of the energy is associated ...