Abstract: The saturation range in the frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves is rederived. Laboratory and theoretical work show that wave breaking is the result of kinematic instability, suggesting that wave celerity is the ...

Abstract: Analytic and numerical models for longshore currents generated by obliquely incident random waves am compared with field observations. Five days of observations were selected during which the waves were narrow banded in ...

Abstract: ield observations of oscillating currents in the surfzone of a natural beach show significant vertical structure in energy, phase, and rotation at low frequencies around 0.005 Hz, where most of the energy is associated ...