Abstract: Laboratory measurements of the instantaneous free surface, horizontal velocity, and void fraction fluctuations were made simultaneously for three cases of regular waves breaking on a plane slope. The data were reduced by ...

Abstract: Observations of the cross-shore variations of pressure gradients measured on a fixed barred beach in a large-scale laboratory wave flume are presented in this paper. The wave-induced components (0.1–1.0 Hz) of the free ...

Abstract: This paper describes the hydrodynamic characteristics of a pile-supported vertical wall breakwater, the upper part of which is a vertical wall, and the lower part consisting of an array of vertical piles. For regular waves, ...