Abstract: Estimates of the effective number of degrees of freedom for integrals of a spectrum (e.g., significant wave height) are shown to be biased. The mean value of estimates of the effective degrees of freedom from unsmoothed ...

Abstract: Comparison of predicted with observed attenuation of pressure fluctuations shows that wave heights can be estimated with observations from a pressure sensor that is buried a known depth in fine sand. The attenuation of ...

Abstract: Statistics of wave groups observed for a wide range of wave heights, power‐spectral shapes, and water depths are compared to the statistics predicted by both direct numerical simulation and analytic approximation of linear ...

Abstract: A technique to simulate non-Gaussian time series with a desired (“target”) power spectrum and bispectrum is applied to ocean waves. The targets were obtained from observed bottom pressure fluctuations of shoaling, nonbreaking ...

Abstract: Colocated sediment pore pressures at depths of approximately 0.02 and 0.22 m below the sand surface and near-bed water velocities were measured for approximately 2 weeks in approximately 1 m mean water depth on an ocean ...

Abstract: Auto and cross-bispectral analyses of a two-degree-of-freedom system with quadratic nonlinearities having two-to-one internal (autoparametric) resonance are presented. Following the work of Nayfeh ...

Abstract: Water oscillations observed in a 10-m-diameter, 2-m-deep hole excavated on the foreshore just above the low-tide line on an ocean beach were consistent with theory. When swashes first filled the initially circular hole on ...

Abstract: The roles of frequency dispersion, nonlinearity, and laminar viscosity in the evolution of long waves over distances of many wavelengths in constant water depth are investigated with numerical solutions of the Boussinesq ...

Abstract: A technique is demonstrated for characterizing water‐level fluctuations in irrigation canals using amplitude spectral estimates obtained with a fast Fourier transform. The technique, which is often used to analyze mechanical ...

Abstract: Alongshore gradients in wave energy and propagation direction were observed near a pier that extends 500 m from the Duck, N.C., shoreline to about 6-m water depth. When incident waves approached the beach obliquely, wave ...