Abstract: Using the results of large‐scale wave tank tests of monochromatic waves breaking on sandy beaches, Larson and Kraus have shown that storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) equilibrium beach profiles can be segregated in terms ...

Abstract: A simple explicit numerical model suitable for a personal computer is discussed that provides for the refraction and shoaling of linear and nonlinear water waves over irregular bathymetry, including wave‐current interaction. ...

Abstract: The Stream Function Wave Theory has been shown to produce waves with multiple crests. This paper shows that the multiple-crested waves are not real, but an attempt by the numerical theory to represent a periodic wave train ...

Abstract: Small‐scale model tests for single and multiple offshore breakwaters were performed in a spiral wave basin to examine the effects of their geometric parameters on the morphological change in their vicinity. The model results ...

Abstract: A semiempirical model for the prediction of shoreline advancement/recession of an initially plane beach is developed by using a conservation of sand argument and extending the equilibrium profile concept of Bruun and Dean ...

Abstract: A parabolic model for propagation of water waves, implemented with an efficient split‐step Fourier transform algorithm, is presented. The split‐step Fourier transform algorithm, widely used in acoustics to solve the parabolic ...

Abstract: For the past several years, great advances have been made in the modeling of water‐wave propagation problems using the concept of angular spectrum. In a 1989 paper, Vincent and Briggs reported hydraulic model experiments ...