Abstract: The paper presents results of harmonic analysis in studying particle motion in oscillating flows. An approximate equation is derived to solve the zeroth harmonic equation, which governs the effective fall velocity

Abstract: The instantaneous velocity of particles driven by an oscillating flow can be determined by means of Fourier analysis. A simple numerical method based on the principle of least square error is presented to obtain the solutions ...

Abstract: Many wind wave spectrum models provide excellent wave height prediction given the input of wind speed and wave age. Their quantification of the surface roughness, on the other hand, varies considerably. The ocean surface ...

Abstract: Recent advances in the Boussinesq modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics offer a platform for the study of wind effects on wave transformation and breaking-generated nearshore circulation. The paper documents: (1) the new ...

Abstract: An analytical formulation is presented for the calculation of the water wave field in and around a circular region of wave damping, such as might occur over a kelp bed. Figures show the instantaneous wave field and wave ...

Abstract: A parabolic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. The coefficient of the dissipation term ...