Abstract: Wavenumber-frequency spectra of the infragravity (periods 20-200 sec) wave velocity field in the surf zone of two California beaches are estimated. Because the longshore arrays of biaxial electromagnetic current meters are ...

Abstract: A data-adaptive directional-spectrum estimator is developed for ?point? measurement systems such as the pitch and roll buoy and slope array. This estimator, unlike the much employed unimodal cosine power parameterization ...