Abstract: Predictions of wave action on slopes, and various wave- and depth-induced processes in the surf zone rely on two principal parameters: Wave steepness and surf parameter. For irregular waves, the theoretical distributions ...

Abstract: The least-upper-bound (lub) theory recently proposed by Tayfun and Al-Humoud as a model for the statistical distribution of nonlinear wave crests is explored further. The theoretical distribution of the lub to the largest crest in

Abstract: The representation of directional random waves in deep water under locally homogeneous conditions is examined in terms of the effect of second‐order nonlinearities on the wave envelope and phase. Theoretical expressions ...

Abstract: Properties of surface‐elevation spectra representative of nonlinear deep‐water wind waves are examined theoretically. For a wave field characterized by second‐order nonlinearities, expressions describing the spatial ...

Abstract: The statistical distribution of zero‐crossing wave heights is considered within the context of a previous theory proposed by the writer some years ago. The underlying model, definitions, and assumptions are reexamined ...

Abstract: The joint probability density of zero upcrossing wave heights and periods is investigated over the range of large wave heights. The density of interest is expressed as the product of the marginal density of large wave ...

Abstract: The usual analysis of zero up‐crossing properties in a wave record requires digitization of the record at a finite sampling rate. This process and the resulting errors are examined utilizing simple models, theoretical ...

Abstract: The exact form of the statistical distribution of nonlinear wave crests is not known. This study proposes and develops a theoretical least upper bound (

Abstract: Theoretical forms of spectra associated with the odd and even powers of the wave envelope are examined. It is shown that spectral densities for the even powers of the envelope admit exact forms, whereas those for the odd ...

Abstract: Two alternate sets of definitions for the wave envelope and phase which follow from the Rice‐Dugundji and Crandall‐Mark representation of random wave forms are compared. Theoretical constraints implied by these representations, ...