Abstract: It is shown that the vertical acceleration of a particle beneath the crest of a step gravity wave does not always decrease monotonically with depth in the fluid. When the wave steepness ak exceeds 0.4, the acceleration at ...

Abstract: Sunlight reflected from a wind-roughened sea surface produces a glitter pattern in which the region of maximum intensity tends to be shifted horizontally by an apparent angle ?, depending on the wind speed. It is shown ...

Abstract: Surface accelerations can be measured in at least two ways: 1) by a fixed vertical wave guage, 2) by a free-floating buoy. This gives rise to two different vertical accelerations, called respectively ?apparent? and ?real?, ...

Abstract: Recent theoretical studies of the accelerations in regular gravity waves of finite steepness have shown striking differences between the Eulerian and the Lagrangian accelerations (those measured by fixed instruments or ...