Abstract: The simple case of sand accretion behind an impermeable breakwater parallel to the shoreline with normally incident waves is treated. The cuspate foreland or salient so formed has an apex whose location from the breakwater ...

Abstract: Waves impacting on breakwaters, even of rubble‐mounds, are reflected efficiently from them, so producing almost standing waves for normal approach and a complex short‐crested wave system for oblique approach. In the former, ...

Abstract: The reason for submitting one more scenario to this spectacular failure is that it may prevent a similar occurrence. It is suggested that failure was due to bed subsidence or liquefaction, so causing the supporting rubble ...

Abstract: Crenulate‐shaped bays are ubiquitous, with a large spectrum of sizes on coasts, enclosed seas, lakes, and rivers. They exist where waves arrive persistently from an oblique direction to the general coast. They thus indicate ...

Abstract: Bays as a predominant physical feature of the coastlines of the world have been recognized for some 30 years. Their plan form has received attention for over 20 years. The shape equated to a logarithmic spiral has received ...

Abstract: This paper reports the results of a new mathematical derivation for the transformation of a progressive wave propagating obliquely on a gentle slope. On the basis of the conservation principle of wave motion and in a ...