Abstract: State-of-the-art parameterizations of the interactions of waves with a sandy bottom are evaluated using extensive field observations of swell evolution across the North Carolina continental shelf and hindcasts performed ...

Abstract: Extensive wave measurements were collected on the North Carolina?Virginia continental shelf in the autumn of 1999. Comparisons of observations and spectral refraction computations reveal strong cross-shelf decay of energetic ...

Abstract: urface-following buoys are widely used to collect routine ocean wave measurements. While accelerometer and tilt sensors have been used for decades to measure the wave-induced buoy displacements, alternative global positioning ...