Abstract: Bottom-mounted pressure gauges are used to measure waves in coastal inlets, where tidal currents are significant. Theoretically, neglect of the current in analysis of pressure data can lead to order-one errors in wave ...

Abstract: Coastal inlets pose challenges of complex bathymetry, wave-current interaction, and influences of natural and artificial barriers for prediction of wave transformation with numerical wave models. The steady-state spectral ...

Abstract: Shoaling and decay of irregular wave trains with two distinct frequency peaks are simulated in a wave flume. The relative energy in each wave train, the closeness of the frequency peaks, and the total wave energy were ...

Abstract: The cross-shore variation of the local reflection coefficient